"The driver or the last person below does not fall. This is the first condition results when it should not fall. His fall from any height means self harm and even death of the entire joint. In the Alps, to fall as the leading means to fail dismally as a mountaineer. "
So wrote Geoffrey Winthrop (Geoffrey Winthrop) supertron electronics limited in the edition of Mountain Craft 1920, before the invention of nylon climbing ropes. Young (Young) did not condemn the violation of abstract ethics. It just reminds readers that death is a possible consequence.
For the last four thousand years the construction of the rope has changed little. People twisted fiber - hemp, flax, sisal, cotton or silk - cord to form a "twisted" rope. Ropes of multiple strands subsequently proved stronger than made from braided fiber cables, although they were more complicated to make. Ropes made of yarn rolled right proved the most durable. (Scientists would later discover that the structure of hemp fibers are composed of microscopic spiral right.)
In the mid-nineteenth century, when the Crimean War restricts access to hemp British manufacturers eyeing the fibers of the plant abaca (Manila), type banana. As a result, the ropes were far more elastic than hemp, which allows them to absorb more of the power generated in the fall of the climber. supertron electronics limited With static security, however, thirty-five-pound (15.89 kg.) Object can destroy tied 1/2 "(12.7 mm) rope from Manila by a factor of 2 drop (when the lead flies off double the length of the rope between him, and insurance). A season use may reduce its strength by more than fifty percent.
Since the cables can not really protect the leading climbers use them mainly for passing in connection with a short rope in difficult terrain or skiing in steep sections. In Dangers of the Alps (The Dangers of the Alps, 1985), the Austrian aplinist Zsigmondy Emil (Emil Zsigmondy) notes, "The rope is very important supertron electronics limited when descending. The beginner feels more fear downhill than uphill. "
In the same year in which he published his book, Zsigmondy falls on the south wall of La Meillet (La Meij, 3982 m) when the rope which descended slips rock overhang. His brother wound it the end of the rope around his hand, takes some of the power until the fall it pulls in a ledge. Despite additional security rope break and Zsigmondy died.
During World War II, the French caver Pierre Chevalier (Pierre Chevalier) and U.S. Military inventors began experimenting with synthetic fibers. Custom military rope Plymouth Company (Plymouth Cordage Company) developed a twisted nylon ropes predecessors "Goldline". supertron electronics limited Was necessary force 3.77 times greater to break 7/16 "(11.1 mm) naylovo rope than necessary for the severance supertron electronics limited of 1/2" (12.7 mm) rope from Manila.
In 1947, Al Baxter (Al Baxter) slips 30 feet (about supertron electronics limited 9 meters) of insurance in the side of Wolf Ram-Erickson (Ulf Ramm-Ericson) and 10 feet above the old wedge normal route (Regular Route, 5.9 ) on Higher supertron electronics limited Cathedral Spire in Yosemite. Taking off a cliff, he broke both legs and the wedge is removed, but his partner stopped the fall. In 1948, the American Alpine Journal partial notes "endurance and strength of 7/16" (11.1 mm) nylon rope, "saved the lives of Baxter.
Now that it is far more likely to survive a fall, climbers can do technically more difficult ascents at less risk. However, many years ago when tying the waist with old ropes from natural fibers, climbers already reached category 5.10 climbed the big north faces of the Alps and reachable over 8000 m (without oxygen) in the Himalayas.
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